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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.